Mar 15 2008

Breaking News: Earthquake!

On Wednesday, Istanbul was shaken up by a minor Earthquake. I am not sure where I was but my flat mate felt it, so did most of my friends. Maybe because it was my first earthquake I didn’t notice it? That doesn’t make any sense does it? Regardless, people were pretty shaken up by it because of reports of a big earthquake on its way.

In 1999 a massive earthquake rocked western Turkey. It hit in a city east of Turkey called Izmit (200,000 people, Turkey’s 35th largest city), causing massive damage. Some estimate put the death toll as high as 40,000 people and the damage to Turkey’s infrastructure was enormous. The quake registered 7.6. Since then Turkey redefined it’s building code to prevent the widespread damage in the next earthquake.

The US Geological survey has predicted that another massive earthquake will strike Istanbul in the next 30 years. Thus, while I was excited to have lived through my first earthquake (despite not noticing) some of my friends were quite scared. Until the news confirmed that a second earthquake would not be immediately coming, Istanbul was on edge.

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Mar 10 2008

I Need Turkish Lessons

Sorry I haven’t written much but my wrist has been bothering me a lot because I spend too much time in front of my laptop, which has a keyboard that is too small for me. Both of my wrists are killing me right now. I have been dreading typing anything lately.

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In December07, I got up and went through my morning routine. Everything was pretty normal; Bathroom, shower, brush the teeth, get dressed, breakfast.  On this particular gray and dreary morning, I poured the last drop of milk out of the container I had been using into my cereal, filling it far short of the desired level. So I took to the fridge rummaging around. I found one bottle and checked it over for the percentage. The bottle had already been opened and had not been bought by me so I assume Murat had bought it. It was in Turkish so I figured if I looked for a number I could figure out what kind of milk it was (I hate skim milk). After about a minute, I thought screw it, I am sure it’s fine.

The first spoonful of this milk had something wrong about it. The taste of the cereal hid the problem but not well enough. Something was definitely wrong with this milk. It tasted a little sour and salt of all things! It was definitely salty.  I smelled the bowl and it smelled fine. It definitely hadn’t gone bad. I smelled the container which also smelled fine. Perhaps I was going crazy?

After two more spoonfuls, sniffing the bottle of milk a second and third time after each mouthful, I had had enough. Something was wrong with this milk! I needed to get something else for breakfast because I couldn’t take it anymore. That’s when I noticed the big letters on the front of the bottle. I guess perhaps while looking for a number I didn’t bother to mentally process any of the writing on the bottle, or perhaps because I know so little Turkish I simply disregard text that I see written. This however, written in the biggest font on the bottle was a word that I did know. It said “Ayran.”

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 Ayran is a Turkish specialty. I made my parents try it once while we were in Paris together back in March 2003 and they both were disgusted by it. This is awful they said, how can you drink this? My mother then proceeded to say that Ayran tastes like “yogurt mixed with salt water.”

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Well that is exactly what it is. It is yogurt, salt and water mixed together. It is typically served cold along side just about every dish. If you are curious, you can check out this Ayran recipe. Ayran and yogurt in general are incredibly popular in Turkey. Ayran is a standard drink and can be purchased anywhere that Coke or any other soft drinks. It can be purchased in small containers or many places have their own Ayran machines that keep it well mixed and ready for serving. Even McDonald’s here serves Ayran (note: I have been told this. I have never actually been in a McDonald’s here nor have I eaten food from there).

Variations of Ayran can be served with mint, black pepper, cucumber juice or garlic. I can’t say that I have had any of the variations, but I have seen a kind of cold yogurt soup made with cucumber juice. I haven’t tried nor have I investigated what it is really, but it looks like Ayran with cucumber pieces floating in it. It is common in the Middle East, the Balkans and Central Asia (in other words a lot of the territory previously under control of the Ottomans). In some places in Turkey it is the standard welcome drink for visitors - bumping tea from that spot (Wikipedia.org)

I am not crazy about the drink, but I have a taste for it. It is refreshing and goes great with a heavy meat dish such as a kebab or gyro/donner. From time to time I order it, but the availability of fresh fruit juice here means that I end up ordering those instead.

What I learned from this experience is that I really should start learning Turkish. I was briefly motivated for a few days. I am hoping that in the next few months I will find that motivation again. Perhaps a third goof (remember trying to do Laundry?) to really get me going.

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Feb 29 2008

Update: The last two months

Current Mood:Happy emoticon Happy

Well a lot has happened since I last wrote a real post way back on… December 12th! It was a real pain in the butt trying to get my domains transfered and set up my new host for my website, but it’s all finally done thanks to the help of Ant and Ali Emre.

So what has happened. I guess most of you know about the primaries in the US, which has been the news item winning most of my attention. I guess that’s not interesting for my American readers (everyone else go to cnn.com, they have good coverage).

Izzy and I went to Morocco for one week. It was an organized all expense paid tour. This was the first time I have done something like that and probably the last. I prefer to travel on my own schedule and to just wander around. Although it was a fun trip, I don’t think I will do it again. I covered four cities in seven days. On the way over I hadn’t quite gotten over a nasal infection. I couldn’t equalize the pressure when we went up and I nearly fainted from the pain. I spent the last two days of the trip praying to the porcelain gods. Anyway here are the pictures. Sorry I don’t have any of when they threw a monkey on Izzy’s head out of no where on the street. That was probably the highlight of the trip.

Morocco Pictures

My brother came to visit me right after Christmas up through New Years. We went around Istanbul, partied with my friends, did some shopping… it was a nice visit. I think he had fun except for a little problem with food or water, everything went well. Another friend of mine, James (aka Spags) was here as well. Graham, Spags and myself went to Kapadokya, ‘the land of well bred horses.’ Kapadokya is one of the most interesting places in Turkey according to my friends. It is full of bizarre land formations and underground cities that have been used by countless cultures for thousands of years. Because of it’s relative isolation on the high plateau of central Turkey, it was never a important strategic point to control so it was more or less ignored by conquering armies. I will let you look at the pictures for yourself. (oh I had a sweet new year’s eve party at my apartment. Those pictures are also there)

Pictures from Graham’s visit

Other than that I haven’t done too much. I went to Slovakia for an exhibition for work, but I haven’t posted any pictures. I finally got new climbing shoes. About one week afterwards Izzy hurt his shoulder so we can’t climb until it heals.

My gaming group has really taken off. We created “Istanbul Boardgame Enthusiasts” group on facebook and Izzy and I have been very aggressively trying to recruit new gamers. It has definitely paid off. The only problem we have had is about finding a place to play. Over the summer Wonderland started turning off the AC to get us to leave earlier. Then we moved to the Wrap which said they are now closing at 10:30 instead of 11:30. They had spent the weeks prior trying to kick us at at 11:00. Now we are playing at a bagel cafe called Tribeca. It’s definitely not the best place for us since we are so loud. When we are not there it is a very quiet upscale cafe. When we get there it gets a little wild, especially with the recent surge in people. I have a feeling we are going to be hassled there until we leave also. Here are a few pictures from our recent meetings:

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Me explaining ‘Ticket to Ride’ to a captive audience.

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In the back left of this picture is Ali Emre and myself. We are actually trying to get my webspace setup to transfer my blog in this picture.

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This composite is courtesy of Rana. This was the final showdown in bang between Izzy the sheriff, and Turan the renegade. Izzy won.

On the political front, Serbs attacked the Turkish Embassy in Belgrade when Turkey backed Kosovo. Turkey invaded Northern Iraq to hopefully catch PKK terrorists. If you aren’t sure what the PKK is, I wrote about them in two previous blog entries: Turmoil in Turkey: Part I, Turmoil in Turkey: Part II. Turkey lifted the ban on women’s head scarves in all schools and other government institutions (this is a much bigger deal here than you think, but that’s for a later entry). Of course, that is only the last weeks worth of news in Turkey! To go with all three of those big events, there has been lots of protesting, especially in the east of Turkey where there has been daily rioting, vandalism and clashes with police. On the bright side of things after last weeks blizzard which dumped nearly 10 inches of snow in some places, the weather is warming up! Here’s a picture from trying to drive in the first, and the smaller of the two snow storms.

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Alright, that’s all I have for now. Take care of everyone and keep reading. Thanks mom and Chris for bugging me about getting back to blogging.

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Dec 14 2007

Snow!

It’s snowing right now in Istanbul!

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Dec 12 2007

Doing Laundry

I am no stranger to doing my own laundry. Throughout university (in the US and in Switzerland) I had to do my own laundry. When I came to Turkey however, my house keeper was doing my laundry once a week. She kept doing things wrong like washing things I didn’t washed, or washing dry clean only thing. So I got annoyed and took washing into my own hands. Until two days ago, I was reasonably successful.

The first few weeks of doing laundry I would set the machine to some setting where the machine stays full of water and doesn’t unlock (it’s a side loading machine). I could understand if there was a soak setting where the machine would fill with water and sit, but this setting seemed to wash the clothes and then just never finish the cycle. The only way I could figure out how to get them out was change the setting and try again. Through trial and error, I found the one setting out of 8 or 10, that I can use on all clothes and doesn’t take too long.

Two nights ago I encountered a new problem. When I opened the washing machine, my clothes smelled really strange. Our original giant bag of detergent had run out so I had used something else I found under the sink. Suspicious I called a friend to consult. Very slowly I sounded out the words on the bag as the other end of the line began laughing. Apparently I had washed my clothes in some kind of chemical you run through the washing machine to protect it, and I had used a lot of it!  It was too late to buy new detergent, so went to sleep.

Having learned my lesson, I went to the store the next night to buy detergent. Again I called a Turkish friend to consult on which one to buy. Eventually I found one and brought it to the front of the store. No wallet! I frantically began searching my pockets for my wallet. I needed this detergent. I hadn’t done laundry in three weeks and I literally had nothing left. I found 5 lyra, a far cry from the 23.50 it was for this detergent. Like an idiot I had to walk out of the store empty handed after having held up the line as I rummaged around in my pockets. I needed that detergent.

I thought about it for a bit then I thought why not borrow the money from someone else. So I called the guy in charge of our building, Ercan. He knows me well because I am always getting locked out of my apartment and he has to let me in. Using another friend to help translate, I managed to borrow 15 lyra. Not quite enough to cover the bag I wanted, but could just buy a cheaper bag; problem solved!

Back in the store, detergent found, waiting in line, paid for! It was 18.50 so I had only 1.50 lyra left. Just as I paid my friend called to check how things are going. I said I had to buy a different one because the other was too expensive. As I read the label, she informed that I had once again bought the wrong one. I had bought detergent for bleach. Not knowing what to do, I had her translate to the cashier my error. After laughing at me (I was laughing at myself too), she went and got the right detergent and gave me a new receipt.

Problem solved, laundry done.

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Dec 6 2007

Happy Birthday and Goodbye

This past weekend we had a double party that we had been planning for over a week in advance! We celebrated Adnan’s birthday (his girl friend Amber organized it) and Selim being sent off to the military (I made sure this celebration happened). This entry is more or less a few pictures. The whole evening was great. My flight from the Ukraine was delayed so much that I went straight to the restaurant from the airport, which was a pain in the ass, but it was worth it.

A note about the Turkish military: military service is mandatory. This seems to be the one thing in Turkey that money cannot get you out of. Everyone goes. The service is one year. If you have a college education you can only serve six months as a soldier or one year as an officer. In general the military is described as boring, depressing and incredibly inefficient (I explained the oxymoron ‘military intelligence’ to my friends here and they all thought this was very funny and very true). The worst part about the military is getting sent to the east where the PKK (the Kurdish terrorist organization) is very active and has been fighting against the Turkish military for 30 years. Many people are afraid of being sent to this part of Turkey.

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This was the group at the party. From the left starting with those people that are sitting down: I don’t know, I don’t know, Sedef (Ant’s girl friend), Ant, Izel, Tahsin, Erman, Me, Selim, Mieria (sp?)(Selim’s girl friend), don’t know, don’t know, Dilek (Ali Emre’s girl friend) and Ali Emre. Standing up from the left is Mehtin, Amber (Adnan’s girl friend), Adnan and Izzy. The place was perfect for a nice dinner party.

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The men of the hour, Selim and Adnan at the center. Mehtin is on the right and Adnan’s girl friend Amber is on the left.

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The top of this cake says something along the lines of “our great soldier Selim.” The bottom says “Happy birthday Adnan.” This cake was bought by Izel, Mehtin and Izzy, who have one thing in common; they are all Jewish. They were very proud of the fact that they were able to buy only one cake with both messages on it. It was pointed out to them that they should have stood one plate up in the middle with writing on both sides to save even more money. They love to joke about the Jewish stereotype.

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After the dinner party we ditched the girls or they ditched us? Only Ant’s girl friend Sedef came with us. Tradition told us that we had to drive around honking our horns (didn’t actually do this), get Selim very drunk, sing “Em buyuk asker bizim asker” (Our great soldier is the best soldier?), and carry him on our shoulders. It was so much fun! (from the left, bottom row: Izel, Selim, Me, Izzy, top row: Ant, Erman, Tahsin).

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From the left: Izel, Selim, Me, Erman and Izzy (Erman and Izzy are my usual running crew. They live really close to each other so I seem them all the time. Izel and Selim I met through gaming.

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From the left, Izzy, Izel, Selim, Erman and Tahsin.

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Dec 3 2007

Our New Employee: Part II

In case you missed it, here is part one of this entry:

Our New Employee

Pasha is gone. They tied him up for a bit two weeks ago. As soon as he got off the chain, he dissappeared.

Ahmet is very bored at work.

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Nov 28 2007

Istanbul Games and Diplomacy

When I first came to Istanbul, I brought only clothes. My first trip home for my brother’s graduation last May, I left Turkey with empty bags, and returned with mostly board games. You see, one of the many things that Izzy and I have in common is a passion for board gaming. We talked about it and decided we would put our collections together and form a weekly gaming group. It has been three months since we put this idea into practice. So far it’s been quite successful.

We have been able to meet nearly every week with between four and eight people. We typically meet at 8pm and eat together while playing games and catching up with what one another have been up to. Selim and Izel, whom I have met through gaming, are as devoted as Izzy, Erman and I. Selim travels nearly as far as I do (90 minutes) to get to where we play and is so in love with the games that he borrows them to play with his own group on the Asian side of the city on weekends, and takes notes during the week (well he did until we all made fun of him too much for taking notes during the game).

According to Selim (and the other agree), the kind of thought provoking games that I have brought with me from various countries (France, the US, the UK, Germany and Italy) are very appealing to Turks. Most Turks don’t do much with their free time. Many young people spend their weekends socializing in cafes or at malls shopping. He says many of the people he knows simply do not know what to do with their free time other than going out somewhere together. Games, he says, allow people to do something that is different, and familiar at the same time. People can still be with friends and socialize, but at the same time they get to put their minds to work and engage in friendly and fun competition. It is my impression that Turks like to compete. All those people that have had a little courage and come to a meeting or two have had a lot of fun, and instantly became warmly welcomed members of the group.

We started off by creating a Google group to organize ourselves. When Facebook began spreading like wildfire through Turkey, Izzy set up a Facebook group as well. You can check out either below as well as the group game list:

Of course, my goal with the group is to build a base of Diplomacy players. For those of you that do not know, it’s one specific game that I play a lot. It’s sort of my hobby (if you want more information than that, do your own research). I love the Thursday meetings, and wouldn’t change them for anything, but I would like to get a monthly Diplomacy game started. We have played twice now, and are playing online together, but haven’t had much organization about it. Hopefully that will change when it’s colder and people have less to do.

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Playing ‘Power Grid’ at a cafe called ‘The Wrap.’ It has great food, strange, but soft music, and is usually empty. Except for making us leave at 11:30pm instead of midnight, it is a perfect place for gaming. From the left is Omer, Selim, Tahsin, Izel, someone I don’t know and Kocas (AKA Patrick)

 

One of the things that the group was inspired to do (mainly Izel, Selim, Erman and Izzy) was to bring games to Turkey. They said you can’t buy games like the ones I have anywhere and that it could be very popular to sell these kinds of games in student dense areas. Well this past weekend Izzy made the following find in a store:

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In case you don’t know, that is Settlers of Catan, a rather well known very popular German game. If I had to pick a game to introduce first to Turkey, it would be that one. Furthermore, the game to the left is Ingenious, a new and fun German game. So it appears someone beat us to it. For me this is great. Less work for me! I am going to try contacting the company that did the translation and see if we can’t influence them on their future choice of games, and hopefully our group will continue to grow as steadily as it has been.

 

 

 

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Nov 25 2007

Girls, girls, girls…: Part II

For those of you that didn’t read the first part of this entry here is the link to it. The first part of this entry got more feedback than any other entry by far (not necessarily in the form of comments on the page) and I have several people ask me when PartII will be posted.

Girls, girls, girls…: Part I

So yes, it’s finally here. I think many of you will be disappointed. The impression I got from family and friends was that you all wanted to read about specific interactions with Turkish girls and the juicy details. In other words my love life. Well sorry to disappoint you. This entry specifically addresses the comment Dancing Queen left on the first girls entry. His comment was as follows:

My question of course is “how are the boys?”

Do they treat their ladies well? I hear tell that Turkey is “progressive” — and remembering your culturally (in)sensitive entry, I wonder what you think about the gender conflict where you are?

So I suppose this entry should really be called, “Guys, guys, guys…” but then I wouldn’t be able to make a trilogy out of it.

Let’s start with some facts (before I give you my subjective opinions and observations): The Swiss-based World Economic Forum releases an annual list that ranks countries by gender equality. They judge countries on four categories: educational attainment, economic participation and opportunity, political empowerment, health and survival. The US ranks 31st, relatively low (this is attributed to low political participation by women). Turkey ranked 121st, which is terrible. It ranked higher than only seven other countries: Yemen, Chad, Pakistan, Nepal, Saudi Arabia, Benin and Morocco (think about who’s not in this list).

Clearly the swiss think that there is a huge divide between the genders here in Turkey. I have seen it, I have talked about it with friends and acquaintances. After reading the report, I talked about a bit more. Bit by bit I collected various observations about how inter sex relations work here in Turkey.

Near to where I live is a part of the city known for it’s “Russian girls.” I put the phrase Russian girls in quotes because the abundance of Russian prostitutes here in Istanbul has mad the phrase “Russian girls” synonymous with prostitutes. I cannot tell you how many times people have said to me:

  • “You want Russian girls.”
  • “Conrad, you go Russian girls?”
  • “Conrad, you want go Russian girls?”

They love it. They love to talk about girls and sex. Some of it is very PG other bits are not appropriate for the content of my blog. The majority of the time, these questions are coming from people already with a significant other.

Several people have bragged to me about how they have been cheating on their significant other. Some of these people are hailed as ‘lucky’ or ’smart.’ They are praised and envied by their friends, which only reinforces the continuation of the behavior. They are held in high regards, amongst the men that is. Worse is the man who has a child at home.

From what I can tell, cheating appears to be rampant. Defenses to this criticism include, “but Turkish girls don’t put out.” I find this weak at best as I am reminded of people who have told me they only want to marry a virgin, or my doctor who told me it is important to marry a girl much younger than me (it’s about the sex, you don’t need to be friends he said).

A friend told me that most Turks are just talk. They said that because of the culture many Turks are celibate until they marry, and then have only one woman. For them it is exciting and entertaining to talk about the possibilities if they were to say, go to the Ukraine for a fair for one week. A significant number of men do not deceive their significant other in this way. I have seen more evidence to suggest that they do deceive their wives, but as usual, my experience comes out of the small bubble that I live in here in Turkey.

If we look at world wide divorce rates from 2002, we can see that Turkey ranks quite low at only 6% of new marriages compared to 45.8% in the US (if divorcing was a contest, it appears Scandinavia would win that too). But I don’t have a lot of experience with Turkish couples. I have been told that typically, wives will not ask questions of their husbands if they bring home the money. One friend told me that if a wife starts asking questions, the husband has only to give her money for new clothes and she will let it rest. Does this mean that divorce is taboo and that people are living marriages they don’t want to be in? I think so.

One evening some friends and I sat down to play a game. We played and I asked some of the girls there if they would like to join in. They had been watching us play and had asked a question or two. One of the guys interrupted and told me not to bother trying to get girls to play games. He said that this was not their thing and it was a waste of time trying to get them to play. What? This seemed ridiculous to me. Anybody can have fun playing a board game, a card game. Like Izzy’s mother and my mother, they are both very good bridge players. Many of my female friends from back home really enjoy playing some of the games I have. I of course said that’s silly, and that there is a game for everyone. So the girls joined in and they had a good time. A small victory for me!

I can say with reasonable certainty that Turks don’t have much respect for women (I make this as a general statement and not as an absolute truth of Turkish culture. There are many exceptions). I could go on and on here citing examples of Turkish men having no confidence in women’s ability for various tasks, or of great surprise when seeing a woman succeed, but I don’t want to sound like a broken record. You get the idea.

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Nov 23 2007

Worst Thanksgiving

Current Mood:Angry emoticon Angry

I remember it all very clearly. I went climbing Wednesday night, had dinner and then went out in Taksim for Leyla’s birthday. Drove home, no problem. Was very tired though.

Thursday night, Thanksgiving, Murat took the car I had had the previous night. He called me and asked if I had left any bags in the car. I distinctly remember looking at my backpack full of climbing stuff in the morning. It was sitting in the back of the car. I remember thinking there wasn’t much point to taking it out of the car in the morning. So yes, my favorite backpack ($120), my climbing shoes ($70) and my harness (it was a steal for $60) as well as my cold medicine, a can of deodorant and a can of body spray - funny how I remember exactly the contents of my backpack that I had packed two days before.

If you haven’t guessed where this is going, yes, the car was broken into for a third time! (In case you don’t remember here are the entries for the previous two times: Broken Window 1, Broken Window 2). It’s not so much the monetary value of what was lost as the sentimental value of what was lost. That backpack, which I bought over three years ago in Switzerland, has barely left my side since then. It has been hiking glaciers, skiing 2 mile high mountains, hiking hardened lava flows in Hawaii, diving trips, rock climbing (obviously), class, planes, trains, cars… it’s been everywhere. I loved that backpack. It even had a sticker that said “Polynesian Adventures” on it from Hawaii. It was good and dirty too. I can say with confidence that after my laptop, my backpack was my favorite possession. On top of all that, I am still sick.

So, I hope everyone else had a happy thanksgiving. There were some good things about the day, but in general it was a very sub par thanksgiving. It would have been nice to at least have some turkey and stuffing.

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