Jun 11

Well I returned from a fantastic trip in the south of Turkey about ten days ago. I have been a bit slow about writing the entry because I wanted to cover the trip thoroughly. I have tried to include prices where I can so that if someone else is considering a similar trips they can get an idea about how much it will cost. If you want to jump straight to the picture gallery, click here.

I started by heading to the ancient Lycian city of Olympos, near Antalya, a place I had been before (Olympos Post). My plan was to go there and to climb and get some time to myself. I took a pair of climbing shoes and a harness and was hoping to hook up with some other climbers while there.

I stayed in Kadir’s Tree Houses which is the original place to stay in Olympos. I stayed in dormitory style rooms with four people to a room. Normally you pay 25 ytl for this rooms (this includes dinner and breakfast buffet), but climbers get a discount so I only paid 100 ytl for five days. Laundry services was 7.5 ytl, and there was internet, food, beer and all that available as well. It’s a great place to stay for climbers since it’s maybe the only place that offers guided rock climbing and has all the equipment. It also has the one of only two discos in the valley. Given this, and that it is quite famous, Kadir’s is a great place to meet other travelers, to party, to do any number of adventure sports available in the area (canyoning, rock climbing, sea kayaking, diving, boating…), or to just relax. Although I did not get to climb I still had a nice time, met some cool people and enjoyed myself. Istanbul is so big and busy and stressful that it can be sometimes overbearing. I really needed to get out of the city, collect my thoughts, relax, and think about what to do next in life. Anyway, here is a picture tour of my time in Olympos:

Kadir\'s Tree Houses in Olympos Turkey

This is a picture of the tree houses. Many of the buildings in the valley are like this. Since it’s a national park you can’t build any permanent structures so everything is pretty flimsy and weak looking. I like it though. It definitely has character. I think the people that work there said there are something like 300 beds on the whole camp. Although it’s the furthest camp from the beach, they have a beach shuttle that goes to and from the entrance to the ancient city (to get to the beach you have to walk through the city).

Kadir\'s Tree Houses in Olympos Turkey

The funny thing about the employees here is that most of them are volunteer. If you work there you don’t really get paid, but you get free food and a free place to stay. A lot of the people working there were on very long vacations and just happened to come to Olympos and were offered jobs for the summer so they decided to stay. Anyway, this is a picture inside the Hangar bar. It’s a large two story building that acts as the hotel lobby. People congregate here and hangout during the day playing backgammon and what not. I spent a good amount of time here reading.

This is the group I hung out with while there. I am the one on top behind the guy making a claw shape with his hand. From the left is Mark, an English guy who’s Turkish wife is taking the picture, Luke, a student from Manchester currently studying anthropology in Edinburgh, Will another student at Edinburgh traveling with Luke, and David, a young German guy who just finished his mandatory military service in Germany. Luke and Mark both loved discussion politics and it became hard to keep them apart from each other. David chose Turkey as his first big trip on his own and spent five weeks traveling around. I joined him through the next leg of his trip and during his final leg in Istanbul. We had a great time together.

Olympos Valley Picture

This is an image looking down at all the little bungalows and cafes that dot the road. They are all more or less the same. Some of them have fruit orchards behind them. Pomegranate, grapes, oranges, mulberries, and apricots are among the fruit that grow in the area. The large road like area is a dried up river bed. Since there are no plants growing there I am guessing that it must flood pretty well during the rainy season (winter). I couldn’t capture this with a picture, but it was quite a sublime experience to stand in the river bed and look at the mountains towering around you.

Olympos wildlife - Spider

Olympos wildlife - Spider 2

Olympos wildlife - Turtle

Being a secluded scarcely populated valley, Olympos has a decent amount of wild life compared to Istanbul, then again that’s not saying much. I saw two other types of huge spiders during this trip which made me a bit uneasy. I really hate spiders. One of them, the biggest and ugliest one, was on the wall of one of the bungalows I stayed in.

Olympos Scenary

It was hard to capture it, but the valley is surrounded by pretty steep mountains. This is a picture I took after having climbed up one of them.

Making Gozleme in Olympos

Gozleme is one of the specialties of the area. Gozleme is a flat crepe like thing. It is stuffed with spinach, cheese, meat, potatoes or any mix of those. It is then cooked on a large convex cooking surface which you see in the back. Underneath the surface is a small compartment where a fire is kept burning. If made right, these are so good. I recommend potatoes and Kasar cheese mixed.

This is what’s left of the old Roman bathes of the ancient city. I am actually standing inside where the original building used to be. There is very little information given in the ruins, and very little written anywhere online, so at best I can only say what each building was, and even that is difficult. Many of the ruins are grown over and scattered making them very difficult to find. I spent two days exploring the surrounding forest to find some of these places.

Olympos Ampitheatre

This is what’s left of the amphitheater. The entrance was in decent shape but once you walked under the arch very little was discernible. In the frame is David, the German guy I met there. He wasn’t nearly as thrilled as I was to be exploring the ancient ruins, but I guess he had nothing better to do.

Olympos block of houses

This is what’s left of what appears to be a block of houses. The pathway is part of the Lycian Trail, a very well known hiking trail along Turkey’s south coast.

More Olympos Ruins

More ruins. This building had a great view of the valley. From here I was able to spot other tall buildings poking out over the tree tops, and followed up with them the next day.

More ruins 2

An excellent find! This sarcophagus (I think it is at least), was in a clearing in the forest. It was quite far off of the path so I imagine most people don’t get to see this. Aside from the hole most likely made by a grave robber, it was in decent shape for a couple thousand years old. You could still read some of the writing on it!

More Ruins 3

This pathway is certainly not new and I don’t think people were in the business of building walkways like this back then. I can only think that it was used to channel water between areas of the city.

Tile Mosaic Floor in Olympos

Again this bit of the ruins was unlabeled except for the obvious fact that it had a tile mosaic floor still reasonably intact. It’s really a strange feeling to be walking in the forest and then to suddenly find yourself walking on a tile mosaic floor that most people wish they could have in their bathrooms.

Me!

That’s me in my rugged man get up. This was another bit of unlabeled ruins.

I love Olympos this much

That’s how much I love Olympos. In conclusion, this small valley is a must visit for any young traveler. Whatever you are looking for in an adventure, I promise you that you can find it here.

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Jun 05

Sorry, I am still outside of Istanbul, so all you get is another picture. In my random wanderings around the city, I found this street near the Galatta Tower. The street seemed to have nothing but music shops with the occasional juice stand. These are the only music shops I have seen, although I haven’t been looking for them.

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Jun 02

I am still gone, so here’s another picture from Istanbul. As I said earlier I spend a lot of time on Istiklal Street in Taksim. The street is lined start to finish with buildings built up against each other. Ever so often, there are small streets crossing Istiklal. Equally often there are ‘pasaj’ or passages. These are covered pathways between buildings that are typically filled with cafes, shops or in the case of the famous cicek pasaj (flower passage) Meyhanes (restaurants where one goes to drink Raki and eat Turkish appetizers). Here is a picture of a rather unimpressive pasaj. It is completely covered protecting it from the rain.

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May 29

Well since I am out of Istanbul without a computer, I am just posting a short series of pictures of a rather well hidden church right on the busiest shopping street in Istanbul, probably in all of Turkey. Istiklal Caddesi is a pedestrian street leading up to Taksim square, lined with shops, bars, restaurants, and about everything else you can imagine. It’s one of my favorite places. I spend most Friday and Saturday nights in or around Taksim, and it wasn’t until very recently I noticed this well hidden church.

This is the entrance to the church. Past the gate, there is a small set of stairs leading down to the church’s front door. The entrance is completely flush with the other buildings flanking the street making it very hard to spot.

These are the stairs leading past the entrance and down to the front door.

Although not much, this is the inside of the church. They had roman catholic and two other religions’ services on the schedule while I was here.

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May 20

These are some pictures of the tulips sculptures that have sprouted up around the city. Most of them are around Taksim or Nisantasi, two of the more affluent neighborhoods in Istanbul. A few months ago it was lots of cows. They have since disappeared and now we have tulip sculptures. It’s nice to see outdoor public art around the city.

Tulip sculptures in Taksim Square, Istanbul, Turkey 3

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May 14

Now that I have more free time I decided I should make the most of it. I have signed myself up to take the GREs and the GMAT so that I can apply to graduate programs. I am also half heartedly looking for a new job, and I am planning some trips within Turkey. This week however, I decided to do something that very few have ever done. I toured the Taps Brewery in Gebze, Istanbul.

I have known the head brewer there for sometime and have been to the Taps restarant on several occasions. The brewery was started as a restaurant with in house brewing in 2001 by an American Brewer named William Kemper. He later moved the brewing to a microbrewery outside of Istanbul and about a year ago turned the reins over to his assistant (my friend), the California born Mark Harvey Kenney, or just Harvey. Harvey has been running the brewery ever since with his Kenyan assistant Daniel. Yesterday, I made the trip all the way to the far stretches of the Asian side of the city with Harvey to spend a day at work with him.

As far as I know, the taps brewery is the only real microbrewery in Turkey. They currently produce, Dunkel, Kolsch, Pilsner, Red Ale, Strong Ale, Stout, Vienna Lager, Golden Ale and Hefeweizen. They also have one beer that has not been released to the general public yet: Taps IPA! Taps is by far the best beer made in Turkey. When I am in the store I buy their bottles if I see them and I go to the restaurant occasionally. However the music in the restaurant (which closed on Friday) is so awful and so loud, that I go there very rarely, and only at Harvey’s invitation. For those of you that are living in Turkey who haven’t had Taps beer, you really must try it. It is very good and better than all the Turkish made and foreign imported beer available in Turkey.

For your viewing pleasure here are the pictures and explanations from my day at Turkey’s one and only craft brewery.

me-on-site-at-the-taps-brewery-in-gebze

That’s me on site at the brewery. I am sitting on the platform between the three tanks where the raw ingredients are mixed and cooked together to form the wort, which later gets mixed with yeast and stored for fermentation. Each of the tanks is stainless steel with temperature sensors that are connected to the master control system for the brewery. Each tank has a hollow shell that is filled with steam to help regulate the temperature. Although a very high-tech and highly automated brewery, careful attention must be paid by the brewer and his assistant.

Taps Istanbul Brewery Control System

It doesn’t look like much, and it seems like this kind of system would be standard, but apparently it’s not. Harvey’s assistant, Daniel, who worked in a brewery in England said a lot of the breweries there don’t have any of this advanced computer technology to control the processes. From this computer you can monitor every tank in the whole brewery, you can control the steam flow in each segment of each tank, you can control the valves in the system and monitor flow rates at various parts of the system. I am sure there is more that you can do, but I wasn’t too interested in the computer.

taps-brewery-istanbul-tank-views

Here are four views of the different tanks. I can’t describe to you in great deal what each one is used for but I can say that the top right one is the raw malt being brought in from the floor above, and mixed with hot water. The bottom right one is the cooked wort being drained into the storage tank for fermentation. I got to see the whole process start to finish and it was quite impressive.

Imported German Hops

These are condensed hops from Germany. They smelled great! Just like a heavily hopped beer. Somewhere in the brewery they had the American Cascade Hops, which give American craft beers their unique flavor. Harvey used them to make his IPA.

the-man-behind-taps-beer

Harvey! That’s the storage room where kegs are kept until they are ready to be shipped. Since it’s a young brewery and there isn’t much of a beer industry in Turkey, they aren’t producing very high quantities yet. On a side note Harvey pointed out to me while we were having lunch at a restarant that he’s usually the only foreigner at that restaurant and he’s always the one wearing workman’s overalls. Everyone else had suits on.

cloudy beer

There is something in the beer that bonds to something else in the beer and forms little chunks. This makes it easier to filter. I didn’t quite catch what chemical was going on, but it did look strange.

harvey-still-at-work-in-the-lab

Harvey at work in the lab. Each batch has to be checked for alcohol content among other things. Harvey hasn’t been able to find distilled water for sale in Turkey so he also uses his lab to distill his own water.

doing-the-yeast-cell-count-to-make-sure-there-is-enough

Using a microscope, I got to count the yeast cell density in the finished product. It’s important to make sure there is enough yeast in the tank before leaving it to ferment. I think this batch was low, but I am not the expert. On a side note, you will notice my ring is a beer bottle opener.

yeast-being-added-inline-from-the-yeast-of-another-tank

Yeast being added to the beer inline on it’s way into the storage tank for fermentation. Since yeast is a living organism, you can take simply take yeast from one tank, and use it to ferment the next tank, and then the next tank and so on.

Beer on it’s way to the fermentation tanks.

This is the outlet for the carbon dioxide produced during fermentation. It keeps the pressure from building up too much.

sipping-a-fresh-unfiltered-taps-ipa

Of course, if you work in a brewery, there is always time to grab a fresh beer straight from the fermentation tank! That’s me holding Turkey’s first every IPA (India pale ale). This is without a doubt my favorite beer. This one wasn’t perfect Harvey admitted, but I thought the taste was good. When it ferments a little more and the carbonation gets up to where it should be, I think it’s going to be a fantastic beer. For now, it’s still sitting in the tank, waiting.

Thank you Harvey for giving me the opportunity to go to work with you. It was great!

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May 05

For some reason Youtube is blocked as of today, again. No word yet as to why though… I’ll keep you updated.

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May 04

I recently got back from two weeks in the US. When I made the reservations I was planning to come back to my job. Since I am not working anymore, that was not the case. Instead I have been spending time with my friends planning my next step.

A lot of people asked the standard questions; was it fun? did you see your family? what did you do? where did you go? what did you miss most? One question in particular grabbed me. Someone asked me what I surprised me, or rather what grabbed me in the US that I had forgotten about, what was different from Turkey that I was now noticing after having been in Turkey for so long. I couldn’t think of anything that grabbed me about the US, but after two weeks in the US, I noticed something about Turkey: Istanbul is ugly.

I guess I never realized the extent of Turkey’s ugliness. After having visited various cities in the US, it really hit me when I got back. Once you get away from the really old parts of the city, all the building are really cheaply built, with bad architecture, cracks, peeling paint, tons of air conditioners hanging out of windows, tons of satellite dishes and antennas, the windows aren’t clean. It’s as if no one pays to upkeep the multitude of oddly colored shoddy buildings. On top of that, it’s dirty and nothing is green. Here’s a few pictures (I know this kind of comparison isn’t exactly fair, but you have to see for yourself how ugly it is when you get to the parts built in the last 20 years).

Istanbul and Philadelphia

Istanbul (left) and Philadelphia (right). I went to Phily to visit my brother who is doing a masters degree at UPenn.

Istanbul versus Baltimore

Istanbul (left) and Baltimore (right). I didn’t go to Baltimore, but I did go to another small town in Maryland where I visited my aunt, and her family.

In addition to having a good time I brought back some things that I felt were missing here in Turkey. I meant to get grill seasoning and good BBQ sauce but I forgot those. I did however bring a magazine listing cars for sale and apartments for rent (in Pittsburgh), which I gave to Alper. He is always asking me about how much things cost in the US so I figure those to magazines would answer many of his questions better than I could. I also brough back Beer:

American Craft Beers

From the left: Sawtooth ale from the Left Hand brewing company in Colorado, blackberry wheat ale from Long Trail brewing company in Vermont, Ruination India Pale Ale from the Stone Brewery in California, Hoptical Illusion from the Blue Point brewing company in Long Island New York (near where I am from), and the Yeti Imperial Stout from the Great Divide brewing company in Colorado. I only had limited space so I tried to grab a decent selection. Apparently, according to the only brewer I know in Istanbul, Harvey (he’s from California), the reason beer here sucks is because Efes - the leading beer distributor - won’t let anyone import, and the water here is not right for beer. There are too many unwanted salts and things in the water. He says he’s going to start using reverse osmosis to take everything out of the water, and then add what he wants, to mimic good beer brewing water. He said an IPA is on the way!

Girl Scout Cookies in Istanbul

Girl Scout cookies! Of course. I can’t believe I never though of this before. My little cousin Olivia does the girl scout cookie fund raiser so my Aunt Beth (her mother) reserved a few boxes for me. I thought the best use would be to bring them to Istanbul and share them with my Turkish friends. I am planning to open them this weekend. In the US, there are boy scouts, and girl scouts. To raise money, the girl scouts have been selling the same cookies for years and years and years. They are very good, and very popular. Kind of expensive but it’s for a good cause right? It helps support the creation of strong, independent women with good leadership abilities. I used to buy a bunch of these when I was in university for $3.50 per box. I would buy some for my friends who would buy them at value. When they would run out, they would always come looking for more, either drunk or hungover. I would charge extortionist prices which they would begrudgingly pay. I think I sold one box for over 10 dollars one time.

I also brought back with me a bunch of out of print games that I want to play with some of my friends here. I unfortunately left them with Izzy so I don’t have a picture.

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May 02

Yesterday was international labor day, a day that celebrates the rights and achievements of workers around the world. In most places peaceful demonstrations are held during labor day. Yesterday here in Istanbul, it was a full out battle, with the police finishing way a head. There was teargas, fire houses, and beatings a plenty throughout the day. The labor parties head quarters was stormed by police and tear gassed, a hospital was tear gassed, numerous groups of demonstrators scattered through the city were gassed and beaten. Demonstrators wanted to hold demonstrations in the city’s historic Taksim square. However 20,000 police barricaded the square and refused to let demonstrators near the square. Entire areas of Istanbul ended up getting tear gassed to clear out protesters. Although I personally did not get there in time to witness any of the fighting (the governor ordered most of the strategic teargassing early in the morning, including the hospital), I did witness the huge police force. I would have my own shots and videos from Taksim square, but while I was on my way there (walking was the only way to get anywhere nearby), something very urgent came up and I had to run. So here are some of my pictures, and some other people’s pictures/videos that I pulled off of YouTube.

A random video I found on YouTube

Another random video I found on YouTube

Here are some pictures I took myself. I noticed the reporters, police and protesters all had gas masks.

Turkish Police out during May 1st labour day celebration

Turkish Police out during May 1st labour day celebration

Turkish Police out during May 1st labour day celebration

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Apr 16

Here is a series of pictures - all from Turkey - that a friend sent to me. The ones posted here are the ones that I could easily see happening in Turkey

Turkish bathroom

Debatebly better than a whole in the floor, which is quite common in Turkey.

Car transport service in Turkey

I haven’t seen something like this personally but it wouldn’t surprise me if I did.

Plane cleaning in Turkey

Looks a little dangerous, doesn’t it?

Car Repari in Turkey

Another one that I haven’t seen but wouldn’t be surprised if I saw it.

entrance fees at turkish monuments in istanbul

This is my favorite one. I actually have seen this at one of the monuments. On the right it says the entrance fee is two million Turkish Lyra. On the left it says “entrance one million.” Sneaky Turks!

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